After a less than successful trip to Spain and a hectic start to the year I decided to have a weeks holiday in Kalymnos with a good friend of mine Katy Piddock for some much needed girl time, sunshine and ice cream. I last went to Kalymnos in 2010 for 3 weeks with Adam Hodgson and had an amazing time onsighting my first 8a. This time didn’t disappoint either, though a week just wasn’t long enough.
Before I went out I hadn’t really trained I’d been busy setting a lot and feeling pretty wiped out, just before we headed out I came down with a stinking cold as did Katy (not good trip juju). Both Katy and I had been messaging each other excited about our up coming holiday as we had both been working hard – equally looking forward to climbing together again as well as doing all the holiday things. We didn’t have any set plans we both just wanted to go climbing.
The first day we arrived it was windy with showers (not the Kalymnos weather we were hoping for, especially after leaving North Wales in a sunny state). We headed to Odyssey with Katy not having done much there, it was cold and we were glad to have warm layers. Warming up was hard work and with stinking colds neither of us were mega psyched but I persevered on. Katy tried Fouska but didn’t get on with the burly moves still feeling a bit baked from the journey. It was sheltered in this bit of the crag and I decided to put the clips in on Gaia (8b) and have a look at the moves. I’d initially been more psyched on heading to Jurassic Cave but heard that bits were wet and it was cold. Gaia is my anti-style being pure power endurance with big moves but they were also cool moves, in giving it a look I surprised myself by piecing together the moves quickly. However doing the moves and linking them together on something like this are very different stories. At the end of the day I had a quick warm down onsighting Alfredo Alfredo (7b+) which was definitely harder work than I anticipated in the freezing cold!
The next day we headed back, it was super windy again but at least it wasn’t raining! When we arrived some people were leaving due to it being on the cusp of dangerously windy! It was interesting climbing in the mega wind on the first sector so we quickly moved on my warm up was less than ideal. I had a quick go on Gaia getting a new high point, it was sunnier but still windy. Some of the Bristol and London crew had arrived bringing some new psych doing a cool route to the right. I had another go on Gaia messing up low down on the start of the crux being too cold but also getting a massive flapper on my middle finger. I didn’t feel it go as it was so cold but it was definitely a deep gusher – gutted! I did some maintenance then taped it with tissue underneath. I had another go getting to my high point again but finding the last hard move before going left super burly.
I had it in my mind that I was capable of doing this route even though it’s my anti style but also being unsure to continue with it due to only having a week. With the new high levels of climbing being performed its easy to forget sometimes that 8b is still really freaking hard.
The next day we had a plan to head up to Spartacus wall, my memories of this sector last time was it being mega busy due to having some classic routes. It was pleasantly surprising to find only one other team at the crag, we did some really cool routes to start with. The best route was a 6c called Les Amazones and for anyone operating at this grade visiting Kalymnos I would recommend climbing this beauty of a route. It was my 3rd day on and after watching a guy do Daniboy second go I decided to have a look at it. I felt pretty baked and didn’t climb well through the start getting my head stuck into the same beta that the guy had used to get out of the steep bit instead of working out my own sequence. Annoyingly I came off but pulled back on and figured out my own sequence which felt much easier. We then chilled out and headed to Grande Grotte to catch up with some of Katy’s friends, after a while I decided I was ready for a second go, this time it went down easily with everything flowing very nicely. It was good to finish on a high before having a rest day and we were both psyched to try and get rid of our stupid colds ready to hit the climbing after a day off.
Kalymnian days off are great when the sun is shining though it was still too cold to laze on the beach or go for a swim. We headed to Fatoliti’s and chilled out on the sofas on the sun with Adam Lincoln, the day seemed to race past chatting the hours away before heading for a delicious ice cream from this lovely Italian couple. A Kalymnos holiday wouldn’t be complete without getting ice cream, honey dough balls and lots of delicious seafood.
Feeling a little more rested and recovered from colds. Katy was feeling a little more refreshed and I was starting to feel a bit better too, the sun was out but still with a little breeze and all was well in the world of Kalymnos. Everyone that we knew or met was ticking off their projects and the vibe was chilled but psyched it was starting to feel like a good holiday, Katy and I were psyched to try and push it a bit more for our last 3 days before home, time was flying fast.
It was back to Odyssey for us and after a slightly better warm up I was back on Gaia whilst Katy was eyeing up the lovely 7b+ Alfredo Alfredo. My first go went well but I got another flapper this time in a more awkward place and had to tape up some more. I’m not a massive fan of using tape but desperate times call for desperate measures. Katy had a good first attempt at Alfredo Alfredo nearly making it through the crux section, a sign that the cold was departing. I had another go at Gaia coming heart wrenchingly close to doing the route, it went so smoothly and I’d done all the hard climbing hitting the pocket by the last clip I was moving up on to the last bad hold just before the chains when I came off in disbelief. I’d felt strong and was climbing well, the only thing I can think that happened was that the tape on my finger rolled when I was in the pocket as I felt like I didn’t have it well, in the back of my mind I almost changed to my front 2 fingers because of this but wanted to use my back 2 as they are usually stronger. It’s the first time I’ve been frustrated in a while thinking I was in and knowing I’d climbed well, I let out a huge scream (sorry to anyone who was at the crag) though I didn’t swear. I had one more go that day but didn’t even make it through the first crux due to it getting really hot and the footholds started to feel slippy, I knew I was just pointlessly shredding skin if I had another go.
Although I didn’t send my route that day it was great to see Katy cruise Alfredo Alfredo on her 2nd go and to be getting back to normal. She climbed it in great style and it was good to see her happy from success.
Like a good friend we headed back to Odyssey the next day for me to have another go at Gaia, this was the last day I was going to have a go. My skin felt terrible I was aching and the cold was still lingering but I knew I could do it. Some words of wisdom on this day were that you have to not desire what you want and I’d sort of had this approach on the route for the trip. No matter if I did it or not I was enjoying the moves on a route that didn’t suit me, I was getting high up so it was all good training out in the sun with good friends having a laugh. With the pressure off I had a first good go and got high but figured out a little subtle beta at the end of the crux moves that made a tricky move slightly easier, in my mind this changed the game and I knew the route would go next go if it remained cool enough. I had a good long rest going through the moves in my head wondering if I would do the route, I knew it was possible but my muscles were tired and my skin was sore.
I pulled on wanting to do the route after all the hard work and being so close the day before but knowing that I would be happy if I could give it my best because that’s all you can do right?
I set off through the easy moves feeling ok knowing if I could get through the first crux moves I was giving myself a fighting chance, boom I was in and onto the next crux getting a little shakeout I was through my redpoint crux again heading leftwards. One more big move to hit a small pocket and I was in, I’d taped well this time and when I hit that pocket I was determined I wasn’t coming off this time. I was so happy when I clipped the chains all that work and fighting hard on a route that didn’t suit me had paid off. I’d fought against my cold and done a hard route within the week we had picking something that I had to dig deep for. All that effort had been worth it and I felt like I was back on track.
This trip highlighted that all I want to do right now is go climbing, push myself and surround myself with good friends, I have to give something my all I can’t split my attention because I have to give 100%.
Katy had a quick look at Sirene (7c) after a quick soak up of the sun getting all the moves together pretty quickly. She had a couple of redpoint goes after putting the draws in and came mega close on the redpoint forgetting some foot sequences near the top after looking very cruisy. I was pretty convinced she could do it if we came back the next day.
I convinced her over the evening that we should go back so we made a plan to do a double hit on our last day heading back to Odyssey then Grande Grotte.
We warmed up then I went up Sirene to change over a couple of draws and give the crux holds a brush. Katy then got on the route cruising the first bit, I had my fingers crossed that this was the go and she absolutely cruised. It was great to watch and an amazing last day send, I was pleased to see Katy do this route in great style and to be fighting fit. We packed up and headed to Grande Grotte so I could have a go at onsighting Priapos (7c). The thing with these sort of lines is the climbing is on massive jugs but you just have to keep on trucking through wild terrain. I really enjoyed the climbing in upside down tufa land it was fun climbing, to finish off the day nicely we had a cheeky ice cream and then headed off to get the ferry back to Kos.
This trip with Katy was so much fun and everyone we met was lovely and psyched!
We arrived back into Stanstead at 11:30 and Katy did an amazing job of driving back to Sheffield (we got back at 4am). My head was still on Kalymnos time so at 8:30am I was wide awake! I headed in to see the amazing new clothes line from Rab and have a bit of a better catch up with Gabriel. Watch this space for some exciting news over the coming months!
Then I committed to the drive back popping into DMM to get some stuff for the BMC coaching masterclasses I am currently on the road for.
With this in mind I didn’t want to be a slouch, I went into to Brown’s to visit one of my best friends Charlie who is always psyched! My mind was geared towards going home and sleeping lots but she got me psyched for heading up the pass to Corridors of Power with a small team of Michelle, Dougie and Sorle. After a coffee I was ready to go and chill in the sunshine but on seeing the problem I couldn’t resist trying the problem. It seemed to be one of those that suits the girls better and I came close to doing it quickly but didn’t quite have the beans so will have to head back soon. Then we went to a very busy Pizza and Pint it was one of those nights where it was so good to see many familiar faces and have a good old North Wales catch up.
The next day I headed to LPT with Dougie, I knew this would be my last chance on Melancholie for a while and it was dry. On being down there we found out Oli Grounsell had made the 4th ascent of Megalopa which he was very casual about – congrats to Oli for an absolutely cracking effort! My first effort wasn’t very good and It felt like hard work as it was slightly cold. Second go I made it through the redpoint crux but was unable to feel my fingers and third go I made it to going for the jugs on Bad Bad Boy. I was gutted but pleased at the same time; I’d made two new high points and it was my 5th day on. In my head I know I can do this when fresh as this was the first time all the holds were dry, I had nothing left in the tank at the end of the hard moves but it was so good to be trying hard I loved every minute of it.
My last day in North Wales before being on the road for a while was spent at Gogarth with the legendary Dave Evans doing two classic E3’s in the sunshine by the sea with seals swimming in the water a perfect end to a brief time at home. I may need to reacquaint myself with placing gear well though and being less faffy on the rock, trad head is definitely not in full swing just yet.
Rodellar blog coming soon!